How to make a Kindle cover (or Kindle Case)

I love my kindle. I got mine to save me money as I love very old books that are out of copyright. However as much of a convenient money saver that they are the cases available do cost a pretty penny. Reading lights also cost too much for me to afford. So after a request from a fellow Kindle user I made up this very simple case to keep  the screen clean and scratch free as well as keeping all of my 'Kindle Bits' in one place. This design uses only simple stitches and should be easily followed by a relative newcomer to sewing.This basic method could be adapted for many other things including notebook, net-book, tablet PC's. The design makes a long padded lined strip of fabric. This is then folded over the length of the Kindle and top stitched down the sides. IT d is only folded over the length  of the kindle and not in half. the excess length can then be folded over to form a flap. This wont need any stitching in place, just  some Velcro.

You will need.

Outer fabric (I have used some brocade)  20cm X 55cm
Wadding  20cm X 55cm
Lining (something soft. I have used soft cotton velvet, but fleece would also work well) 22 X 55cm + 12cm X 12cm for internal pocket.
Cotton fabric (to use as a backing for the wadding.20cm X 55 cm
Scissors 
Chalk
Pins
Needle & Thread

Optional extra.
Grosgrain Ribbon (a small off cut would do)
"D"ring

Step 1. Pin the wadding to the WRONG side of the outer fabric  and to the Cotton Backing, efectivly sandwiching it between the cotton and outer fabric. Baste (straight stitch) with a seam allowable of 1-4 inch

This gives you a nice padded case however you could run Diagonal lines of top stitching over your strip or quilted fabric to give it some texture. I sewed around the repeating pattern of my brocade to give my  case a classic almost upholstery look

Now to the lining. If you decide to have a small pocket to put cables and a light in it is best to have that on the back, and placed before attaching the lining to the outer.

Hemm the fabric for the pocket on all sides by folding along the length but 5 mm, and then folding it again before stitching along the fold.

Decide where to place the pocket (I placed the bottom edge of my pocket 30 cm from the top of the strip of fabric) and top stitch in place.

Now RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER pin and sew the outer and the lining together along the long sides,
Press and then sew along the top short side. This is because the lining should be slightly wider than the outer fabric. turn the pouch right side out and lightly press again before folding the open raw edge of the bottom in on itself and top stitching it in place.
Now place your kindle on top of the soft lining and fold the bottom of the strip of fabric up until it meets the top of the Kindle. Mark on the lining were the top of the kindle and the bottom of the kindle is.
You know know where you need to fold your strip to form the case. AND you know where the top flap will reach when you fold it over. Top stitch a large piece of the soft side of Velcro onto the outer layer where the top of the kindle will be (remove Kindle first obviously) now add a smaller piece of the rough side of Velcro on top the lining side of what will become the flap of your case.

If you like use  some grosgrain ribbon to attache a "D-ring" onto the back of the pouch in between the top of the inner pocket and the fold for the flap.

Now we're almost done. Fold the bottom of the strip up to the place marked. You should have a few mm of lining showing on either side. Top stitch down each side where the lining meats the outer fabric. This gives a nice 'Pipped' look. And there you have it. your Kindle Cover!.

A few notes. Why did I use a smaller patch of Velcro for the lid. The rough Velcro can chew up many fabrics so you want it to hit the soft Velcro and NOT the fabric of your kindle cover. So we give it a bigger 'Target' by using a small section of rough and large section of Smooth.

We could have sewn the Velcro for the flap on the lining before attaching the lining to the outer to avoid any top stitching showing on the top. This however would not have been very strong and secure, so just make sure you are very neat when sewing the Velcro on the flap.

You could buy fabric for this project. However it's an example of the benefits of storing off cuts in a suitable container as you may well be able to make this out of any old bits laying around your sewing/project room

Plastic bag holder.

We're often told it isn't easy being green. Since my childhood though we've moved on a lot environmentally speaking/ We now don't use CFC's our cars are a lot more efficient   and we have curbside recycling (Yes I Rosebery when it all went into one big bag). So let us not be too hard on ourselves. Take a step back and give yourself a pat on the back for coming this  far. That said this year we will see a new environmental rule pass.  In Wales all shops must charge at least 5p for "single use carrier bags". This is to encourage people to use harder wearing bags or baskets. This rule will be spreading to the rest of the UK soon and so we thought we'd help you get ready for it. A simple plastic carrier bag holder can go a long way to saving you from buying new bags. You can store some of the lighter re-usable bags OR keep regular carrier bags in it ready to reuse a few more times (or to use to line a small bin in your study or bathroom).

You will need
Fabric -non stretchy, any weight will do.  heavy furniture weight will stay upright more when empty but lighter fabrics work fine too- aprox 40cm-65cm  
Off cut of Ribbon

Scissors

Pins- 
 1/4 inch (aprox 7mm)  elastic 


To begin with cut your fabric into a rectangle about 65cm by 40 cm.
You could use a simple seam by sewing right sides together along the 65cm edge however this is a good opportunity to practise a French Seam. This seam encases the raw edges helping to reduce wear and tear. So fold the fabrics so the 65 cm edge rests against the other 65cm edge WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. 

Sew along the 65cm edge with a seam alowance of 1/4 inch. Press the seams and the roll the tube of fabric inside out. Now sew along the seam again with a 1/2 inch seam.  

You now have a wonderful French Seam which will protect the raw edges from wear and tear, also hand in unlined garments such as shirts.  

At each  end create a hem by folding the fabric over to the wrong side by 1 am, and rolling it again by 1 cm. sew, leaving a small gap at the bottom for threading elastic through.

 attach the elastic to a safty pin and thread it through the bottom hem pulling th elastic so the bottom cloases to about half of the original width wehn unstretched.

Loop a small amount of ribbon over and sew to the top of the container and there you have it. A custom made plastic bag holder.  

   This project encompass much that I love about sewing. It can be made with little odds and ends you may have in your sewing box/room. It's useful, decorative and unique. In fact I've often made up these handy bag holders out of scraps and sold them at festivals alongside other things I've made. It helps people be environmentally friendly whilst letting me experiment with new stitches and seams as well as embroidery. This is just a basic pattern and idea, take it and let your imagination go wild!

News.Letter

Welcome to the brand new update, Needles&Pins.
Each month we will keep you updated with the latest news from Fabric8 in Felixstowe and Colchester along with new products, special offers and how to's. We would like to invite your feedback on these updates, so if there's anything you want updating on please get in touch with us via facebook, email or mention it next time you are in store.

Until next time, keep creative!
The Fabric8 Team
www.fabric8online.co.uk
  Feeling patriotic this year? Bunting, table clothes, napkins...
With the Jubilee and Olympics not far away are you getting into the spirit of things yet? From cottons to fleece, we have it all when it comes to flying our flag this year!

Our stocks are limited, so make sure you order online or pop in to your nearest Fabric8 soon.

Jason Smith joins Fabric8 at Felixstowe
Having worked for major retail chain Paul Simon for over 14 years, Jason joins the Fabric8 team as Store Manager at our Felixstowe branch, offering a wealth of experience and enthusiasm! Preferring the traditional family-like business to that of the corporate world he’s been used to working in Jason commented, “I’ve been a customer at Fabric8 for years, I enjoy the products, advice and friendly service you get each and every time you visit one of the stores.”  He continued, “So when I was told of the vacancy for Store Manager at the Felixstowe branch I have to admit I was really excited.  I applied for and got the job and I’m loving every minute.”
Having introduced some changes in-store as well as new lines Jason feels he understand what customers want having been one himself, “We’ve made some general improvements and additions to the store but been careful not to ensure the place and products are still recognizable to the local community and other customers.”
 

White Angel Net Curtains now available at Felixstowe

Due to popular demand we are now stocking White Angel net curtains at Felixstowe, as well as Colchester.

This is a fabulous and affordable range of made to measure white and cream net curtains. There are 26 designs to choose from plain to pattern.

All you need to do is bring the drop measurement required and the  width of your window and our helpful team will work out the rest for you. It only takes around 2 weeks from ordering to receiving your wonderful fully finished and weighted nets.

Our Colchester branch currently has the Serena range (plain design) in stock available to buy by the metre. Please see Instore for details.

Clearance and special offers...

• New Look patterns only £2.95 until 17th March 

How to Make a Basic Quilt

Be Inspired:
 Finished 2m square quilt 

Materials required:

81 Squares of fabric of similar weight each measuring 25cm x 25cm

(You can get 4 squares out of a fat quarter so need 21 fat quarters)

4m polyester wadding or 2m X 2.3m width cotton wadding

2m x 2m Backing fabric for the wadding such as calico or muslin

2m sheeting

Thread

 

Directions:

 

Pre wash all the main fabrics (except the polyester wadding if using) before use to shrink to size.

Arrange the cut squares into a 9 X 9 square on a flat surface in a way that you are

happy with the pattern that emerges.

Pin the squares in strips of 9 before stitching 1cm from the edge.

Press the seam allowance flat. Repeat for the other 8 strips.

Then pin the strips together and stitch in place.

(Optional extra why not place a border around your quilt in a single fabric to frame it)

Prepare the wadding. Cut the wadding by first creating a 2m x 1.5m (width of polyester wadding) and then a 0.5m x 2m strip and lay together. Stitch together with a herringbone stitch but do not overlap then. This stops the quilt having extra bulk in some areas.

If you are using cotton wadding trim down to match the size of the quilt.

Place the wadding under the patchwork quilt and pin together. Then pin the backing fabric under the wadding. This stops the wadding catching when stitching. Depending on how confident you are feeling you could design a stitching pattern that is very different to the square design onto the quilt, or if this is the first time patch working why not stitch the wadding to the quilt by using the squares as a guide. Note- you can either stitch the quilting pattern to secure the wadding by hand or machine if your machine is able to use a “Running” foot.

To join the sheeting to finish off (Hiding the stitching) Pin the sheeting to the right side of the quilt leaving a 1m opening at either the top or bottom of the work.

Stitch in place.

 

Turn the quilt right way out and pin the open end closed  turning in the seam allowance. Stitch closed either by hand or machine as preferred.

 

For More Tutorials, check our Website, Blog or Face book Page

Alternatively pop in to one of our stores

How to Make and Use Bias for Piping

Be Inspired

 

The old way of making your own piping cord is to cut strips of fabric on the bias (diagonal to grain of fabric). This however is not always possible due to the amount of fabric you may have left after cutting the main pieces out for your current project, so here is an economical way to do it. 

Directions

After measuring the length of the project you want to pipe cut strips of material to that measurement adding 5cm first X 5cm wide. (Figure 1)

With right sides together make a backward L shape and stitch across from right to left. (figure 2)

Open the long strip out and press the seams flat (figure 3). Place the brought piping cord down the centre and then fold around the piping cord (figure 4), Stitch as close to the covered cord as possible thereby leaving a seam allowance when you insert into your project. (Having trouble with the foot of your sewing machine? Use a zipper foot attachment to help)  (figure 5)

The piping is now ready for you to pipe your project

With the right sides together place your piping cord along your chosen starting edge (Figure 6). As you go around each corner splice the seam allowance at an angle, this will ease the cord around. Start your cord on the lower part, but not along the same edge as a zip (if using). Once you have stitched all the way along open up a bit of your piping and remove about 3/4cm (three quarters) of inner piping. This allows you to fold it over the starting end tom finish off nicely.

Zip. If you are putting in a zip place right side together and pin in place before stitching (Figure7).

Machine the other sides together. Tip. Try to stitch on the same line as where you have already attached the piping to one side. Trim the corners of the seam allowance as it will help turn when turning right sides out (figure8).

 

For More Tutorials, check our Website, Blog or Face book Page

Alternatively pop in to one of our stores

New uses for Velcro (and generic hook/loop tapes) to help you get sewing.

Day two of the great tidy up and organisation!

 The rats nest of cables, string and tape measures is borderline on being lethal. A bold claim maybe but I half pulled a  plug out just by pulling on the tape measure, never a safe situation. I decided to spend a few moments thinking about how I could keep the tapes leads and wires in my life in order.

The Tape Measure. 

Retractable tape measure are much easier to store and keep neat. However I use a 3 metre Tape Measure and just can't find a retractable that big. To keep the tape coiled neat and tidy I hit upon the idea of using the adhesive Velcro disks from the shop.

Coil the tape and then apply the  Velcro Disks

Cable Ties
Next I turned my attention to the cables and leads. The problem I have with the classic plastic cable tie is if you decide you want to rearrange your cables you have to cut the tie  apart. This is not only wasteful but also makes me nervous as I don't like slicing though the cable tie in case I slice the cables themselves. I played around with a little double sided Velcro and managed to make a few reusable cable ties just but warping the Velcro around the cable.

Much neater. However double sided Velcro is hard to come by. Also opening the cable ties was a little tricky as the Velcro stuck itself down so well. So instead I decided to make a my own Reusable Velcro Cable Ties from a few cm of regular sew in Velcro and a small strip of ribbon or elastic.

Cut 5cm of the HOOK side of the sew in Velcro

cut 15 cm of the LOOP side of the sew in Velcro

Pin the shorter Hook side to the WRONG side of the longer LOOP side and sew in place

Add a 'Tag of Elastic on the opposite side of the Loop Velcro.

 The Elastic tag or loop makes it possible to pull the cable tie over the plug of your appliance, as a result when the cable tie is UNDONE the cable tie is still attached to your lead, ready for you want to tidy way your appliance

You could use different colour elastic to colour code your tags, making cables easier to identify. The the tags do not have to go over a plug (or you don't mind removing the plug, sliding the tag onto the lead and replacing the plug) you could use ribbon to give you an even wider choice of colours.

Spring Cleaning

With the madness of the Festive sewing behind  us we can now ll look forward to creating some fantastic things for Spring. We've been spring cleaning ourselves, in the shops and metaphorically as well. You may have noticed less social media output from us in the last month. That's because the team have been spending their time expanding the website which will be relaunched soon.

 Spring cleaning and organization can be the greatest aide to your productivity. Keeping your sewing area tidy and prepared can make sewing not just quicker but more of a joy. I have to admit I've let my sewing  room slip... A LOT. Sewing in an untidy studio will always slow you down. Unfortunately Sewing in a rush makes your studio untidy. it's a deadly cycle. My studio got into a disgraceful state when trying to sew Christmas presents with a bad back.

Hardly making me want to sew

Rubish bin over flowing, Mess is often caused by rushing work

My own personal snake nest of cables

I know, it's embarrassing. Amongst my friends I'm renowned for being able to put together a waistcoat in a couple of hours. But now It would take a couple of hours (and a machete) to reach my sewing desk. Therefore a great tidy up is in order, but just tidying isn't enough,  everything needs to have a place to be kept and still be easy to reach. I shall pop a blog up each day showing one or two of the techniques I've developed to keep things in an orderly way. However a simple case of refolding your fabric can make things look a lot more inviting AND you may discover a few long forgotten gems in your textile pile.